Dawn pierces a lavender sky on the South Island of New Zealand. We are alongside a serene glacial lake in the Southern Alps, called Lake Wakatipu, and are entirely ringed by looming mountains. These high ranges betray the story of the collision of continental plates as schist "tors" border spires of metamorphic rock. It is a storybook vista. In fact, the beech forests along the lake were filmed for "The Lord of the Rings." At lake level, delicate hoarfrost nightly coats grasses and plants. As the sun ascends, light sparks in a fairyland of ice crystals. The indigo sky blooms into yellow dawn. Warmth invades the braided river system of shallow sandbars and flats, as paradise shelducks graze on clover and weed seeds. The shy dunnock or hedge sparrow pecks among the pebbles. Hoarfrost melts in the rising sun - a winter's day begins, at the bottom of the world - in "Middle Earth."
