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Private Notes
Carlingford Lough, one of Ireland’s only fjords, is a spectacular setting to open a programme or to begin a border. A deep and sheltered inlet with a tricky tidal entrance guarded by Hawlbowline Lighthouse, Carlingford has seen its share of comings and goings whether it was Queen Meabh looking for her bull or later the Vikings or the Normans, their castle building visible on both sides of the Lough.
This has long been contested territory with some parts of county Louth even shifting provinces from Ulster to Leinster. For almost a century now, the border between Northern Ireland and the rest of the Island follows ancient county boundaries but lacks any agreed definition under the waters of the Lough.
“Everymorning we see this …it’s incredible – I am 40 odd years doing this …I can’t imagine anyone having a front office like mine. ” Tom Keenan – Keenan Oysters Carlingford.
In all this current turmoil Tom Keenan is a man who is happiest almost up to his oxters in Carlingford’s waters producing some the country’s best oysters.
Following the border inland, the line appears on maps for the first time, separating Counties Down from Louth. At Narrow Water echoes of the past and more recent troubles are poignantly evidenced, before the border takes to the high ground overlooked by Clermont Carn with its neo-lithic carn right next to a digital transmitter, a testimony to the power of the high ground in ancient as well as hi-tech modern Ireland.
Overlooking the Gap of the North and Slieve Gullion, South Armagh comes into view. Although the hilltop British Army watch towers are gone the sense of a people under siege to some extent remains.
“Silím gur bhuaigh Croiss Mhic Lionáin cúig Uile Éireann mar gheall ar an meoin sin agus tá siad sásta go leor é a choinneáil.” Jarlath Burns
The landscape through which the border weaves its way throws up examples of beligerent architecture on both sides – the Elizabethan
In the first programme of this short series we began our journey along the border, catching some of the best views from Carlingford Lough as far as Counties Monaghan, Armagh & Tyrone. We now continue, following the Blackwater River upstream marking the boundary between Monaghan and Tyrone. Beyond Aughnacloy, farmland gives way to forest – millenial forest – on both sides of the border; Derry Gorry & Favour Forest Royal.
The border travels onwards and upwards to the boggy uplands of Sliabh Beagh, where Fermanagh meets Tyrone & Monaghan before zig zagging its way to Clones, an ancient monastic settlement. Once bustling Ulster market town, but because it is surrounded on three sides by the border it has lost out, except maybe on Ulster Final day!
“Tá Banc Uladh druidte anois…an Northern Bank ansin druidte fosta. Níl ach Banc na hÉireann fágtha anois – má fheiceann tú suas ansin sin Oifig an Phoist sin dúnta feasta.”
