Cefalu and the Islands in the Sun. Ray and Matt take a train along Sicily's west coast to the medieval city of Cefalu to meet Joe, first generation Sicilian and one of Ray's oldest friends. The trio visit a snail farm, eat some snail eggs and smother themselves in snail cream (which proves very popular with the local wasps). A short road trip leads them to an idyllic vineyard and a wine tasting with another old friend Vito, a master winemaker. Then it's on to the ancient castle of Milazzo to hear stories of pirates and kings and gruesome deaths. They take to the ocean to visit the Aeolian island of Lipari.
