The Camino de Santiago has now taken Brian deep into northern Spain. He explores the role of St James as Matamoros ('Moor-slayer') while puzzling over the highly fretted interior of Burgos cathedral. At Fromista, by contrast, we find a truly pristine example of Romanesque church architecture, but at Leon, while Brian does find the cathedral, he can't face going in, choosing instead to prop up a local tapas bar.